Haegeles' Ireland 2022
Life is like a puzzle.
The more you travel,
The more you understand.
Then the more you understand,
The better the pieces fit together.
Everything you could want in a seaside town: PORTRUSH
victorian
seaside
fun
amusements
Day 11: TO NORTHERN IRELAND -
DONEGAL, DERRY & PORTRUSH
Wednesday
Aug 24, 2022
Mostly Sunny, Breezy, 68°
THE DAY IN WHICH DERRY SPEAKS...
sláinte
Sláinte to our driver, Mark.
Mark hails from Dublin! And he is certainly knowledgeable of the ins and outs of Ireland. We toast Mark's skill in handling the coach. Wow. Some of those narrow and winding roads would have had us white knuckled if we were traversing them ourselves. Thanks to Mark, our ride was stress free.
Having Mark was like having an extra guide, he gladly answered questions and gave us suggestions as well. From him we learned where to get the best Guinness in Ireland and therefore the best Guinness in the world, where to get the best Fish and Chips and where to get the best Murphy's.
THE PERFECT GUINNESS
Mark taught us that not all Guinness is equal.
The taste is dependent several things:
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A tulip shaped glass (for nitrogen to escape)
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The draft lines need to be cleaned weekly.
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The temperature of the Guinness should be 38 degrees when poured and served between 38-43.
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Guinness should be poured within a range of 30-35 PSI which is dependent on altitude. This affects bubble size.
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A two part pour that takes 2 minutes:
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An initial pour with a 45 degree angle, filling the glass only half way (to harp center on glass.) Then wait until a clear distinction forms between the body and the creamy white head. 1 1/2 minutes.
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Second, hold the glass level and pour into the center, and again allow to settle. 1/2 minute.
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A perfect pour results in a head measuring precisely 11/16”.
DO NOT pick up the glass before it is handed to you by the bar tender! "That's a hanging offense." says Mark.
According to Mark and Pascal, Curran's in Dingle has the best Guinness in Ireland and therefore the best Guinness in the world. "It's all downhill from here," says Mark.
We tried a Curran's Guinness and then compared. We did notice a difference! Mark, the tourist says, "Guinness at home will forever be ruined with this new found knowledge."
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We slept one night in Portrush at Portrush Atlantic Hotel on Main St.
This welcoming coastal hotel situated in the center of town enjoys a peaceful and calm environment. PAH was awarded 2022 Hotel Restaurant of the Year at the Northern Ireland Hospitality Food Awards.
ITHE GO MAITH | Eat Well
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Lunch at Simple Simon's in Donegal Town for fresh, locally sourced, eco friendly bites.
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55 Degrees North in Portrush for our group meal with spectacular ocean views.
IRMIRT GO MAITH | Play Well
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Relish a lunch in historic Donegal Town
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Take a dander to the ruins of Donegal Abbey
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Peruse Donegal Castle
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Window shop the Donegal diamond
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Check out the old churches in Donegal
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Easily pass into Northern Ireland
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Encounter vibrant Derry
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Listen to Derry speak through its murals
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Promenade along Derry's impressive medieval wall.
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Wander through Derry's stately Guildhall
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Ramble across the unique Peace Bridge in Derry
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Discover the Victorian architecture of Portrush
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Revel in Portrush's idyllic beach front location
THE HUNGER 1845-1852
"As force majeure masters of Ireland, the British had an affirmative duty grounded in justice to provide relief. They had the means and the ability to deliver such relief. They intentionally failed to do their duty because of their hostility to Irish Catholics -- who then starved to death by the hundreds of thousands as their rich and well-fed British rulers complacently waited and watched. British inertia in such circumstances was callous, contemptible -- and maliciously criminal to the point of second-degree murder." D. J. REARDON Leavenworth, Kan.
Oh Ireland, the depth of sorrow we feel for your past of which we little understood and are now just beginning to grasp. All this time we believed there was a famine in Ireland due to the potato blight. Other European countries experienced the same blight, so why did Ireland suffer so?
The Irish peasant population was wholly dependent on the potato. When the blight occurred, they were affected deeply while the wealthy had other resources for sustenance. Throughout the famine period, Ireland exported 100,000 pounds sterling of food monthly. It wasn't a famine, it was a hunger.
Decisions were made in England, much removed from the suffering, and with obvious indifference. Regulation made it difficult, if not impossible for the peasants to survive, such as "give up your land or starve." (Gregory Claus) Local relief committees were forbidden to sell or distribute food at less than the already inflated prevailing prices. Begging for food was a criminal offense.
Over 1 million lost their lives and another million-plus emigrated. Today, there are more Irish descendants in America than there are Irish in all of Ireland.
Get Your Irish On
EATING LIKE A LOCAL
Eat the local foods! The Gastro Pubs take their food seriously so be sure to check them out. Some popular traditional Irish staple dishes are
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Puddings (sausage based)
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Coddle (savory one pot meal)
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Ulster Fry (N. Ireland breakfast),
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Soda Bread
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Irish Butter (We had never had it prior to the trip, but will from now on!)
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Irish or Guinness Stew
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Colecannon (potatoes and kale)
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And, of course, Fish and Chips.
You'll probably figure out that Frites are French Fries, but it is pronounced 'Freets.' and they are skinny fries. Chips refers to thicker fries similar to our steak fries.
Soda bread in Ireland is so much better than in the US! Ireland's climate is perfect for growing a soft wheat flour which lends itself to a perfect quick bread such as soda bread. Hard wheat flour is better in yeasted breads. We must be using hard wheat flours in US soda breads because we never liked Irish Soda Bread until we tried it in Ireland.
Irish butter, such as Kerry Gold, is your buttery pot of gold. Their butter is produced from grass fed cows so it contains more beta carotene which gives it a golden color and a richer flavor. Add that to the Irish soda bread and yum!
And despite how Americans celebrate St. Patty's Day, the Irish do not eat Corned Beef and Cabbage. We asked a woman we shared "a Snug" with in The Crown in Belfast and she said no one eats it and she dislikes the taste of it herself.
A TRAVEL TIP: Eat the local foods. Try even the things you think you won't like. (In Becky's case that was the Irish puddings...and they were better than she anticipated.)
One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." ― Henry Miller